From Workwear to Streetwear: How Everyday Clothes Became Everyday Fashion
Posted by jonathan kemp on
Ever wondered if a piece of clothing you own wasn’t designed to be fashionable at all? Well, turns out workwear never was – here is the story behind it.
The Origins of Workwear
Let’s take it back to 19th-century Britain, during the Industrial Revolution, when the rise of mass production, such as factories, mines and railways, changed the way people worked. These jobs required clothing that was functional and protected workers from machinery, sharp objects and harsh weather. Materials for the workwear were often sourced locally from heavy, durable fabrics like denim, cotton and duck canvas – the relatively cheap options back then. Denim had a moment for its durability, with blue jeans and overalls carrying the powerful symbol of strength and dedication for workers. Workwear held even more meaning, creating a sense of belonging and togetherness among workers whilst also recognising the unique skills and identities of the different trades.
Influence on America: The Beginning of Carhartt and Dickies
This demand for functional and protective workwear inspired Americans to do the same, and two brands would come to dominate the market. Carhartt was founded in 1889 in Detroit, Michigan, where its first product was heavy-duty bib overalls designed for railroad workers. Specifically made by the founder, Hamilton Carhartt, after speaking directly to local railroad workers about what would benefit them in their clothing – a fun fact: Carhartt are still family-owned today, with CEO Mark Valade, a great-grandson of the founder. Dickies was founded in 1922 in Texas, with their original product also bib overalls made from denim for farm and ranch owners. They even supplied 9 million uniforms to U.S. soldiers during World War II. Both brands were highly favoured by workers for the quality and durability of their workwear, which was made from duck canvas and polyester-cotton twill.
Japan’s Take on Workwear
Meanwhile, in Japan, their workwear had slight influences from the West in the late 19th century, opening them up to new ideas that challenged the way workwear was designed. Combining their traditional craftsmanship with a strong focus on functionality, the Japanese became obsessed with indigo dyeing and sashiko stitching, techniques that extend the lifespan of their clothing. But how did workwear become stylish?
The Skateboarding and Hip-Hop Culture
Well, in the 80s and 90s, workwear transformed from practical to fashionable, yet remained practical for some, attracting those in skateboarding and hip-hop culture. Skaters usually wore Carhartt and Dickies for their toughness, protecting them against falls and scrapes on concrete, with the Dickies 874 pants a popular choice among the group. In hip-hop culture, they embraced brands like Carhartt and Dickies for many reasons, including the baggy-fit fashion that dominated at the time, durability, and the rugged, authentic look they embodied, reflecting hip-hop artists' tough upbringings. Wearing the brands also served as an anti-fashion statement for rappers, rejecting designer clothing and instead staying grounded – showcasing who they truly are and their success without having to be covered in designer clothes. Rappers like Tupac and Kanye West showcased this at high-profile events, where Tupac wore Dickies overalls to the 1st Annual Minority Motion Picture Awards in 1993, and Kanye West wore a $43 Dickies workwear jacket to the 2019 Met Gala, both of whom gained the spotlight for their casual outfits.
Workwear Meets Runway Fashion
By the 2020s, the streetwear influence driven by skaters and rappers had even shaped runway fashion. Fendi’s Spring/Summer 2024 collection was showcased at its very own factory near Florence, paying homage to the hard work of the artisans who make their clothing - with utilitarian pieces like a versatile leather belt and handbags inspired by toolboxes.
Over in Milan, Prada’s Spring/Summer 2024 collection explored the body's expressive freedom through lightweight fabrics and classic tailoring. Workwear was never the theme, but small influences could be seen within the collection. Featuring oversized, worn-in canvas barn jackets - quite like Carhartt’s style - paired with robust shirts and worn over flowy, sheer dresses/skirts balances toughness and softness.
Workwear Today
Workwear remains for those who rely on it and for those who wear it for style, heritage and the craftsmanship behind it. Workwear made from high-quality materials stands out in the fashion industry, especially today, when the industry is dominated by fast fashion. It is sustainable in the long run, holding on to history, authenticity, and comfort, which many today value. Carhartt and Dickies are still the first brands you think of when it comes to this, as they have stuck to their original selves and what their brands are truly made of. Workwear never has to change; fashion just keeps coming back to what’s practical and authentic. So, if you happen to come across a utility jacket, whether that may be Carhartt or some Dickies overalls, that piece of clothing is history you get to wear.
By Auguste Brauklys